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Some of the best Japanese fried chicken in Japan comes from this shack in the middle of nowhere

Casey Baseel Sep 21, 2024
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Roadside restaurant in Oita absolutely knows what it’s doing with karaage.

It’s a testament to Japan’s amazing food culture that no matter where you go, you’re probably close to a great meal. Our most recent reminder of that came at this restaurant in the middle of nowhere.

Well, technically we came across this prefab shack in the middle of Yamakunimachi, a neighborhood in the town of Nakatsu, Oita Prefecture. Oita’s culinary claim to fame is the locals’ expertise in making karaage, Japanese-style fried chicken, and even within the prefecture Nakatsu is known as an especially tasty place for it.

But while we were intrigued, we were a little apprehensive about eating at Noka Shokudo Yamakuni, as the restaurant is called. That’s because “Noka Shoudo” translates to “farmers’ cafeteria,” and we wondered if maybe the eatery only caters to farmers who work the nearby fields and isn’t really the sort of place that can accommodate travelers passing by like us. Still, we saw that they had photos of to-go items, so in a worst-case scenario we could just get some of those and eat in our car, we figured.

All of that worry turned out to be completely unnecessary, though. As we opened the door, the polite and friendly staff gave us a warm welcome, and told us to sit wherever we liked. It was still a little before noon and the restaurant wasn’t particularly crowded yet, so we took a seat and looked over the menu.

Noka Shokudo Yamakuni specializes in fried chicken, and we opted for the boneless karaage set meal, the very first set listed on their menu, which is priced at 750 yen (US$5.35). As we waited, we stared absent-mindedly at the TV playing inside the restaurant as more customers came in as lunchtime rolled around. Whether local regular or first-timer, eating in or ordering to go, the staff was courteous to one and all, and as we were soaking up the warm, relaxed atmosphere, a server brought over our food, and our mood got even better.

In addition to a nice-sized portion of karaage, we had shredded cabbage, sliced cucumber, a dish of macaroni salad, a heaping bowl of white rice, and one of miso soup. We even had a nice slice of pear, which was an especially nice touch as they’re just coming into season in Japan.

But of course, the star of the show here is the fried chicken, and it shines very brightly. From the moment we took our first bite, we could tell that Noka Shokudo Yamakuni’s karaage exists in the perfect sweet spot of fried chicken.

The meat is moist and juicy, but comes to a clean finish that doesn’t feel oily or greasy. It’s extremely flavorful, and the breading serves as the ideal complement, adding texture and taste but without being starchy or pushing the chicken into the background. Noka Shokudo Yamakuni uses rice powder in their breading, which may also contribute to its exquisite balance.

Noka Shokudo Yamakuni’s karaage is so good that it’s almost dangerous, since if we lived in Nakatsu we’d be tempted to eat it every day, which, non-greasy as it may be, probably wouldn’t be the healthiest diet. But since we don’t live in Nakatsu, overindulging isn’t really a concern, so you can bet Noka Shokudo Yamakuni is getting a permanent spot on our to-eat list whenever we do happen to be in town.

Restaurant information
Noka Shokudo Yamakuni / 農家食堂やまくに
Address: 大分県中津市山国町中摩3202-2
Oita-ken, Nakatsu-shi, Yamakunimachi Nakama 3202-2
Open 10 a.m.-6:30 p.m.
Closed Wednesdays

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